TenTo on Beyond The Pass
A tucked-away Japanese restaurant bringing the Kyoto backstreets to Surry Hills in both offering and energy.
In this episode, Din Haikin (Co-founder of TenTo) and Graeme Alexander (Lightspeed’s Hospo Oracle) talk hospitality heritage, chance real estate discoveries, industry friendships and Syrian landlords, as well as crafting a serving of TenTo’s insta-famous Salmon Ochazuke.
Who are they?
Authentic traditional Japanese restaurant of the future
What do they do?
Infused Japanese cuisine served on handcrafted pottery
Since when?
2021
TenTo is the product of passion and circumstance
Beginning as a promise between 2 neighbouring operators to do something together, when the stars aligned, wheels were set in motion and TenTo began to take shape.
It is a collective half-century of hospitality experience and success being put to work by Co-founders Din Haikin and Ryota “Rio” Kumasaka.
The realisation of their dreams is of benefit to everyone who finds themselves wandering down an unassuming backstreet in Surry Hills, unaware of the treasures that lie a stone’s throw away from the busy inner-city streets surrounding.
We begin with fish
Din’s money down the drain
Once again we find ourselves faced with something no cost-conscious operator should ever put in front of me and my Kiwi knife: a beautiful piece of fish. It’s as good as throwing your cold, hard cash into the ocean to swim amongst its surviving brothers and sisters. But, fish is what our Salmon Ochazuke calls for and fish is what we’ll give it!
First, the skin is removed from an immaculate piece of salmon belly, leaving only a thin layer of white on the flesh and no meat whatsoever on the skin. Next, the salmon belly is cut into 1cm thick slices, at an angle so as to keep everything uniform and pretty. It’s that easy and not at all a slippery, painstaking ordeal.
Rice comes next
Press and press, Din!
Now, we move on to a cricket ball-sized mound of rice. It’s a reminder that this insanely pretty, photogenic dish, guaranteed to get you a million likes on Instagram/Tiktok/Myspace (#TomistheGOAT), is an elevated hospo staff meal and is full of sustenance for your hungry mouths.
The rice is shaped into a satisfying cylinder, and dipped in an arare mix, giving us some much-needed crunch.
Next, something else the human race should be very hesitant to put in my hands is shoved into them with reckless abandon: a blowtorch. The arsonist inside of me is, thankfully, humoured for only a couple of seconds as the arare burns quicker than my English skin on a mild day. The blowtorch is extinguished, we are all safe for another day and our dish now has a delightful, smoky edge.
Ochozuke assemble!
How many more of Gabe’s pieces are left?
Now we come to the business end of the dish: assembly.
As many of Gabe’s pieces of salmon are salvaged in favour of mine and Din’s frankly shocking cuts of salmon belly and they’re arranged atop our rice in a pretty flower shape. I can confirm that I used my chopsticks (as Gabe ordered us to do) to arrange my salmon and not once did I use my hands while Gabe wasn’t watching.
Next, we garnish with 3 dots of yuzu kosyo, ikura and some edible flowers, making this the most-gorgeous plate of food I’ve ever seen, let alone made. To celebrate the prettiness of it all, to serve we drown everything in a Japanses green tea broth and mix it all together.
The crowning achievement of this dish though is that it might taste better than it looks, no mean feat when it looks like something lifted from a Studio Ghibli movie.
Hospo family heritage
In WW1 he was making muesli for the English soldiers
Din was always destined to not only work in hospitality, but become a leader in the industry. It’s in his blood.
Going back generations and spanning continents, his great-grandfather owned a bakery which supplied food to English troops in WW1. His dad owned restaurants and catering companies in Tel Aviv before he moved to Australia and started Shenkin.
Din and his brothers worked in the family business, learning their trade under their family’s stewardship and taking various leadership roles within the operation.
And now, Din (along with Rio) has gone out on his own, armed with his experience and hospitality heritage.
A promise kept
“If I find something, I’ll let you know”
It was whilst working within Shenkin that Din met Rio, the owner of the Japanese restaurant above Shenkin’s King Street espresso bar in Newtown.
As neighbouring hospo operators tend to do, the small talk evolves into plans to work together on something new. A lot of the time, these are weighless words, exchanged politely, almost in acknowledgement that you admire the other party.
Not so for Din and Rio.
When Din’s wife found the space for TenTo, he made good on his promise to Rio that if he found something, he’d hit him up to work together.
With Rio came Gabriel D’Agostini, a South American kitchen wizard, trained in Japan and ready to be given the reins to this new kitchen.
With Din & Rio’s business savvy and Gabriel’s incredible food, TenTo was founded on solid ground.
Opportunity from chaos
“I can make these plates”
Sometimes, an opportunity presents itself out of the most-unlikely of scenarios. So it was for TenTo, one chaotic Saturday service.
“We had the first super-busy Saturday. We don’t have enough plates. We don’t have enough ramekins. What do we do?” Rio came up to me and said, ‘I can make these plates.’”
Suddenly, a new revenue stream came into view, showcasing the TenTo team’s ability to spot a brilliant idea amongst the noise. TenTo Clay was born.
“We put it (our ceramics) online for the 1st time and in 72 hours, everything sold. We loved them but we didn’t know that everyone else really liked them.”
Full transcript
Full transcript
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It’s your money.
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How comfortable are you
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with me and you messing this up?
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Just for the video?
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Comfortable.
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Afterwards, he's going to beat the shit out of me.
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Definitely.
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When I first met Din Haikin,
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it was over ten years ago
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for a job interview at his family's business, Shanken.
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And since then, our parts have kind of gone in different directions.
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More recently, Din has stepped away from his family business
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and explored somewhat of a passion project with his partners
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in TenTo.
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And if you ask me, I think we're all lucky for it.
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This is Beyond the Past.
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Gabe, what are we making?
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We making Salmon Ochazuke,
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which is our like,
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a signature dish that we make here.
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It became pretty popular dish.
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How I came about this dish?
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It was just like when I was hungry
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at work and then just grabbing rice,
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a little bit of soup
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And then just eating with salt, really.
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It's a proper hospo dish, it sounds.
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Rice and stock.
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Started from the bottom.
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Totally.
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Just smash it on the fly.
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Easy.
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Yes.
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Good luck!
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We've got this.
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My dad has bakery, sort of chef background.
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We had the passion for coffee.
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We worked with a few solid characters back in the day,
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at the beginning of the beginners of coffee.
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And then we drove fast.
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And then my dad saw this shop that was empty.
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And so he pulled up like a great Middle Eastern dude,
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just a middle of the road,
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ran into the shop, knocked on the door.
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The Syrian guy opened the door.
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And we've been there for 16 years.
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And we sort of like, we made a billion mistakes in the beginning.
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We made endless mistakes in the beginning.
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And we
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we learned.
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So this is salmon belly.
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Yeah
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We get them in whole fillets
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but for us like today.
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Thank you, one each.
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So risky.
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I'll just grab the tip of the skin.
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Yeah.
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And then go like this.
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Okay.
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And then
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there is a sound, particular sound.
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There was no sound now.
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So that means, it's like this.
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But when you,
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like, can you hear?
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Which means
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you can see all the shiny.
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There is like a layers for the skin.
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Yep.
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This is the skin that you can eat it but not uncooked one.
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Yeah.
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And then this is between the layer and the meat.
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So it's like this shiny, beautiful, shiny
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for the salmon.
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And then we want to get all of it.
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It makes it look so easy.
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Yo, killing it.
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Am I actually
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I’m pulling out the skin and the fish.
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Look how far I
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I've got this far.
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Damn it!
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Where’s the white?
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Where’s the white stuff?
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It's all in here.
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Okay.
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Nailed it.
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Pretty fancy.
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Nailed it.
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Barely any fish left on there.
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He’s awesome.
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You're welcome.
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Din’s money down the drain.
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It's just me and an unbelievable gentleman called Ryota Kumasaka.
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Rio is a good lad.
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He's a gun.
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And we've been friends for a long time.
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11 years, something like that?
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And we're always joking and saying,
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Oh, yeah, one day we'll do something together.
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Ha ha ha ha.
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And then COVID came around.
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Yeah.
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And I was actually at the time looking to do my own espresso bar
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anyway in Sydney.
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So I kind of like looked around, kind of been through COVID
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and we both kind of like started seeing
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what other things we can do to be able to help our businesses.
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And then I said man
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“man, if I find something, I’ll let you know.”
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My wife actually found the space.
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Good find.
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Yeah.
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Solid find.
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You need a good wife.
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So we came in and I was like, Holy
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schnitzel.
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Schnitzel?
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Holy schnitzel.
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This is
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Kyoto backstreets.
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We need to do something in here.
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Kyoto, real, Japan,
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Japanese food, coffee,
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Great space, great landlord.
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So we were
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Yeah.
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When we found the place, we actually had a different vision.
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The menu when we started was a little bit different.
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This is the only dish that have not changed, right?
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You’ve got to evolve, haven’t you?
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You can't just stick to the same stuff.
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And listening, listening to our customers has been probably
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the most useful tool.
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In our parts of the brain
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there is, you know, is a happy section, and we need to
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we need to wake that up.
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Especially after COVID a lot of people have gone for,
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I don't know one person that did not have some sort of mental,
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you know, shutdown
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or negative experience in that time.
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So
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bringing back some some happiness is so important.
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So important.
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So just go like this from the back of the knife.
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If you want to follow the pattern.
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You'll be going from here.
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Okay.
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And then just going like this
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All mine is going to be really thin because I left
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most of it on the skin, didn’t I?
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That's piece of the day, I think.
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Oh yeah,, this is really good.
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This is really cool.
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Mine's really good, Din.
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Yeah, I finished mine.
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Here you go.
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Almost all of mine looks like off cuts,
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but I'm okay with it.
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Rio just came up and he was like, I can make these plates.
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I was like, huh?
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Everything around.
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Correct.
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Which is insane to me.
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And then it also means that just literally every single part of it
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is TenTo.
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Yes.
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We had the first super, super busy Saturday
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and the kitchen was like, “We don't have enough plates,
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we don't have enough ramekins.
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What do we do?”
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Rio literally ran downstairs, brought clay, was sitting down in here
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with milk crates
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and he was just like showing us how to make it.
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And we made like 15 in 30 minutes or something.
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Do you have to bake them?
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Yes. Yeah.
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So this is the longest process.
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So he took them home.
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He's got a kiln. Fired everything.
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Glazed, fire, glazed.
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We put it online on Etsy for the first time, and
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in 72 hours,
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everything's sold online
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And we love them, but we didn't know
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everyone else really likes them.
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And then we said, okay, okay, okey...
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This is
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We need to take this serious.
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So we created the company called TenTo Clay.
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And we are working on going online
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and working on producing own clay.
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So we have here is like rice pops,
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which is called Arare,
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this one here.
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And I just
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top and bottom.
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Yep, for this
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I recon I'm gonna nail this
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but can I do it?
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Okay, this is good.
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And then if it there is like
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uneven shape, you can just
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Oh, you can still play with it.
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You can still mold it.
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It feels so fragile.
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Wow Graeme!
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Press and then press.
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Press and press, what?
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Press and press.
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Yes. And yeah.
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Work out.
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Easy going.
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It burns pretty quick.
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That's enough.
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I will pass it onto an expert
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to put it on the table so it wouldn’t fall out of my hand
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Am I allowed to use it on cars?
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The industry is going in a very interesting direction.
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There's some unbelievable joints.
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There's some unbelievable
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places that I haven't seen anywhere in the world in Sydney,
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you know so, interesting stuff.
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It’s good. I'm excited for the future of hospitality.
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What about the future TenTo?
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You need, you need 12 to 18,
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if not 2 years,
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to actually really know your business and really understand
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if you're able to grow enough.
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Because you've you might be thinking
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that you're the best in the world
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because you've hit that peak after like 4 months.
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Totally.
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And you're going to be like, this is me.
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And that's a piece of cake.
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Yeah, I'll do this again.
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And that's, this is when you
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you get the uppercut
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and you are thinking again
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and all of a sudden
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everything you worked for is collapsing
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and you're like, Oh, hold on, hold on.
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What do I need to pay tax?
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What the hell is this?
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Give it 2 years, you know, if you already know you're doing.
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Concepts take a while.
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You got to be smart about it.
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We should not run before we learn how to walk.
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That's it.
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And then this is where the tricky part comes,
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which is we want to make a flower so we get a piece.
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And then using the top one, turn it around
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like this.
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And then put it like this.
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I'm just looking and go
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and how many more of Gabe's pieces are left?
00:09:59:23 - 00:10:03:10
Yeah, that's
00:10:04:02 - 00:10:05:06
These ones.
00:10:05:06 - 00:10:07:06
These are good ones? Ok.
00:10:07:20 - 00:10:13:09
Yuzu Kosyo is like Yuzu salt paste and should be as well
00:10:13:09 - 00:10:15:03
we want to do like this.
00:10:15:03 - 00:10:16:18
Small toutches.
00:10:16:18 - 00:10:18:20
Just three dots.
00:10:18:20 - 00:10:22:05
This one, just a spoon.
00:10:22:19 - 00:10:24:12
just like
00:10:24:12 - 00:10:26:12
a turtle.
00:10:26:12 - 00:10:28:06
So you see like how they
00:10:28:06 - 00:10:30:05
falling down.
00:10:30:05 - 00:10:33:08
Little bit dill on the side.
00:10:33:19 - 00:10:37:15
I don't want to hide the salmon eggs. I want to show them.
00:10:37:15 - 00:10:39:20
So on the sides.
00:10:39:20 - 00:10:42:02
Just some flowers.
00:10:42:02 - 00:10:45:15
Make it more beautiful.
00:10:45:15 - 00:10:48:00
Aesthetic.
00:10:48:20 - 00:10:51:22
Probably a good idea to choose, like,
00:10:51:22 - 00:10:55:20
different colors and break them like petal by petal
00:10:55:20 - 00:11:00:23
or even two petals like this.
00:11:00:23 - 00:11:01:12
Okay.
00:11:01:12 - 00:11:03:12
And then that’s it.
00:11:03:12 - 00:11:05:22
That is done.
00:11:07:06 - 00:11:08:10
Oh, that looks good.
00:11:08:10 - 00:11:10:12
Thanks.
00:11:11:16 - 00:11:13:10
Which one is Din’s?
00:11:26:16 - 00:11:28:02
Gabriel!
00:11:28:02 - 00:11:29:13
This is...
00:11:29:13 - 00:11:30:06
Come on, mate!
00:11:30:06 - 00:11:31:05
This is not okay.
00:11:31:05 - 00:11:32:07
That’s so good.